As one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world (an estimated 5,000 years), Delhi has been destroyed and re-built 11 times. Ruled by several powerful dynasties, India’s capital city has enjoyed both its fair share of great wealth and has overcome many a bloody battle. What stands today is a somewhat conflicting city where old not only meets new, it intertwines, digging its roots firmly in to keep its age-old traditions alive.
A city of 14 million people, Delhi is an often hectic mix as three-wheeled auto rickshaws ride furiously alongside classic ambassadors, chai wallahs serve tea to the middle classes and hawkers peddle their wares beside historical monuments and fast food joints. Visitors often shy away from this vibrant capital, fearing it to be more hassle than it’s worth. But an open mind and curious manner can open the door to a city filled with colour, discovery and wonderment.
Here’s my guide to making the most of a trip to one of the world’s most thriving cities – and enjoying it!
DO…
DO take time to discover Delhi’s rich heritage: A good place to start is the architecturally impressive Red Fort. A remnant of the Mughal dynasty, the fort was built by the Emperor Shah Jahan in 1648 and was the ruling palace at the helm of the new Mughal capital, Shajahanabad, which became the seventh Muslim city in Delhi. Highlights of the fort include the elaborate gardens, the private palace, and the halls for public and private audiences.
DO sample the local cuisine: If getting a dose of Delhi belly puts you off trying the local delicacies, then just being a little sensible will make all the difference. You can experience everything from a roadside shack to five-star gourmet dinner, devouring the typical Mughlai north Indian food that Delhi is famous for. If you feel uncomfortable opting for meat, then stick to vegetables. Delhi’s menus often boast over a 100 different veg options prepared in all manner of spices. Avoid raw and unwashed food, and only take bottled water. Choose restaurants that look busy, make sure food is piping hot and be vigilant when it comes to washing your hands.
DO your research: Delhi is massive and if your trip is only a short stop-off, you really want to have your itinerary sorted before you go. There’s so much to see and do, and the timings of many of the city’s monuments change, so it’s better to have a clear idea of how you want to fill up your days. To get to grip with Delhi’s fascinating history, a copy of William Dalrymple’s City of Djinns delves deep into the capitals murky past. Written after living in Delhi for a year, Dalrymple managed to unearth the magic and characters that make Delhi what it is today.
DO haggle: Pushy and persistent, shop keepers will drive you to near insanity if you take shopping too seriously. Haggling should be fun and hawkers relish good banter with tourists. It’s without question that you will get over-charged for anything that you buy, but there are ways of not getting completely ripped off. If you’re a serious shopper you want to try and buy all your souvenirs from the same store or shop, as this automatically knocks the price down. Get advice from your hotel on how much things should really cost, and make sure that the shopkeeper knows you are aware of the real price. Usually you should expect to haggle down to a third of the original starting price.
DO people watch: One of the best ways to while away an afternoon is to absorb the city’s character through its people. Grab a sweet cup of chai (tea) and head to the sanctuary of one of its parks. Lodhi Gardens is one such place, where you will often find loved-up couples canoodling under the trees. The gardens are also home to many monuments left over from the Lodhi dynasty. Another great people spot is Connaught Place – literally the crossroads where east meets west and old blends into the new. European shops stand side by side with traditional Indian bazaars, and Delhi’s young come out to play.
DON’T…
DON’T fall prey to street hawkers: One of the biggest tourist complaints about Delhi is getting ripped off or scammed, and for some people this can ruin the whole trip. Usually you can spot a scammer as they will come up with a number of outlandish claims that gut instinct tells you aren’t true (if not, try and check with local passers-by). Be wary of anyone who has a cousin or uncle with a shop, and people who pretend that they are official tourist guides. Normally you can fend them off with a stern ‘no’, but if they are overly persistent, walk into a nearby shop, restaurant or attraction and eventually they’ll lose interest. That’s not to say that you shouldn’t talk to the locals. Most Delhi-ites are very friendly and are only too happy to point you in the right direction.
DON’T offend the locals: Indians are very modest in dress, so keeping covered will save you a whole lot of hassle. This is especially important when visiting any of the city’s mosques, in particular the Jama Masjid, which is the largest mosque in India. Not far from the Red Fort, the Jama Masjid is a must-see as a climb to the top of its minaret offers staggering views of the city.
DON’T take a rickshaw ride without agreeing on a price first: This three-wheeled vehicle is possibly the best way to get around town. Yes there’s pollution, near death swerves and a driver that barely looks ahead at the road, but there’s no better way to get to grips with the real Delhi. Unlike taxis though, rickshaws aren’t metered and if the price isn’t agreed on beforehand, then the likelihood is that the driver will push his luck and over-charge you. Get an estimate of how much your journey should cost from your hotel or ask a few locals on the street.
DON’T miss out on a trip to Agra: Reached by plane, train or bus, Agra was once the capital of the Mughal Empire and is just a few hours journey from Delhi. Home to one of the world’s most iconic structures and greatest love stories ever told, the Taj Mahal is dedicated to the memory of Mumtaz Mahal by Shah Jahan. Finished in 1648, this mausoleum attracts visitors in droves who come to capture this monument of love on camera. DON’T lose your temper! Delhi has a knack of pushing its visitors to their limit. Heat, pollution, traffic and miscommunication wreak havoc on your emotions. Although English is widely spoken, India has its own 22 official languages to contend with, so don’t be surprised to find that you’re not understood the first time round. At the same time, Delhi also has a habit of surprising you when you least expect it. Often turning a corner slams a jaw-dropping monument right in your face. A chance meeting can welcome you into the home of a local, stumbling into a street-side café can conjure up the best feast you ever had, and an afternoon spent haggling with a persistent shopkeeper can reveal the truth to what really lies at the heart of this thriving metropolis.
PLACES OF INTEREST
HUMAYUN’S TOMB: A prototype of the Taj Mahal, Humayun’s tomb was built in 1569 by the emperor’s wife, Hamida Banu Begum, as a monument of her love. It is a haven of tranquility to escape the city bustle.
BAHÁ’Ì LOTUS TEMPLE: This ‘house of worship’, or Lotus Temple as it is more commonly known because of its lotus-like shape, is a relatively recent addition to the city’s attractions and encapsulates the New Delhi era.
QUTAB MINAR: A UNESCO heritage site, the Qutab Minar in South Delhi was once the tallest minaret in the world, standing at a staggering 72.5 metres. Left over from the Slave Dynasty, the site (which also holds the ruins of Delhi’s first mosque) was constructed in honour of Islam defeating the last Hindu kingdom in Delhi. INDIA GATE: Built in honour of those that died fighting for the Indian Army, this 42 metre-high stone arch bears the names of 85,000 soldiers. GANDHI NATIONAL MUSEUM: Hailed as ‘the father of the nation’, Gandhi was at the forefront of India’s independence movement and this museum is packed full of photos, paintings, artifacts and papers that document his life. CHANDNI CHOWK: Found opposite the Red Fort, Chandni Chowk is one of the main markets in Old Delhi. It is a great way of getting up close and personal with street life.
JANTAR MANTAR: This observatory was built in 1725 by Maharaja Jai Singh II, and has a reputation of accurately calculating astronomical movements.
|
Travel TIPS 
